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Stripping Inside of Motorcycle Tank


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A failed attempt at using KBS gold for my honda cx500 deluxe tank. It's peeling wildly, so it needs to be stripped out.

I tried some acetone with no noticible results on a test piece that I pulled out. I am next going to try KBS strip, but wondering how it works. Is there a max time the stripper can be in the tank? I assume it's like a thick, gel...will it be difficult to get around all the sides? What time window do I have to remove the stripper once it's done it's job. Most importantly, how do I thin down the stripper so it can drain (along with bad sealer) out the 3/8 fuel line hole at the bottom of the tank? How do I clean up when done? is the stripper water soluble? lacquer thinner? what?

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Use KBS Strip (or a paint stripper containing Methylene chloride) for the most effective removal of an old failed coating. Pour some KBS Strip into tank and carefully rotate tank to allow contact with all sides. It may take multiple applications of KBS Strip to finish the job completely. Old Sealer may come loose in big chunks or small pieces so use a long tweezers-type tool to help remove it from the tank. After stripping is complete, rinse tank generously with water and proceed with the KBS 3-Step System for Fuel Tank Preparation & Sealing. (NOTE: When stripping a Fiberglass Tank, surface contact with the stripping agent should be kept to a minimum to avoid the attack & weakening of the fiberglass resin.)

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I am about to pour in a some aircraft remover, which active ingrediant is Methylene chloride. I am a bit skeptical, because it's thick, like paste - but guessing if I rotate the tank every 20 miutes or so, it should loosen up the liner. Any idea if the next (proper) process of sealing the tank will help the cause? Will the etching/etc/new seal "lock in" anything that's left over? this is a tight tank, only cap hole on top and 3/8" on bottom, almost impossible to really get anything in there...

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