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KBS RustSeal over Silkaflex 291 LOT marine sealer

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As the title states will RustSeal stick to Silkaflex 291LOT polyurethane marine sealant. I used the 291 between the seam of an 1 1/2" scale Train tender tank and its base and it ozzed out into the area I want to coat with the RustSeal. FYI the sealing surface is new sanded powder coat..

  • KBS Coatings changed the title to KBS RustSeal over Silkaflex 291 LOT marine sealer

RustSeal will stick to the Sikaflex 291LOT. Since the sealant is cured polyurethane, it just needs a little surface prep before you coat.

Here is what to do:

  1. Scuff the sealant area with 400 grit sandpaper until the surface looks uniformly dull.

  2. Wipe down with KBS Klean to pull any sanding dust and residue off the surface, then let it dry completely.

  3. Apply at least two thin coats of RustSeal. Thin coats are the rule here; thick applications can trap solvent and cause bubbling.

The recoat window is 2 to 6 hours between coats. Your powder coat is already sanded, so that part of the surface is ready to go. Just make sure everything is clean and dry before you start.

Before you get going, read through the full RustSeal Application Directions at the link below. The steps above are a quick orientation, but the directions cover temperature, humidity, dry times, and other details that can make a real difference in the result.

  • Author

Thanks for the information and glad too hear this will work. The sealant is not exactly smooth as it was also coming up thru the rivet holes so do the nooks and cranny's need to be sanded as I doubt that's going to happen?

If the surfaces are clean, you should get excellent adhesion between the RustSeal and your cured urethane sealant. Scuffing is an insurance step.

Please reach back out with any additional questions.

  • Author

Ok, got it, thanks

Another question, will Rust seal stick to JB Weld Epoxy and if so, does it need sanded?

  • 3 weeks later...
On 6/12/2026 at 11:48 AM, Odyknuck said:

Ok, got it, thanks

Another question, will Rust seal stick to JB Weld Epoxy and if so, does it need sanded?

Yes, RustSeal will bond to cured JB Weld epoxy. JB Weld cures to a smooth, non-porous surface, so it does need to be scuffed first. Just like on bare metal, RustSeal needs some texture to grip onto.

Here's how to do it:

  1. Let the JB Weld fully cure per the JB Weld instructions before doing anything else.

  2. Scuff the cured JB Weld with 320-400 grit sandpaper until the shine is gone and it feels slightly rough to the touch.

  3. Clean the area with KBS Klean to remove sanding dust and any residue, then let it dry completely.

  4. Apply RustSeal in thin coats, minimum two coats, with a 2-6 hour recoat window between coats.

Before you start, read through the full RustSeal application directions linked below. The steps above are a quick orientation, but the directions cover surface prep, dry times, and other details that can make a real difference in the finished result.

If you run into any questions along the way, reach back out.

On 7/3/2026 at 10:32 AM, Odyknuck said:

Can rust seal be applied to stainless rivet heads?

Good question, and yes, RustSeal can be applied to stainless rivet heads. One thing worth knowing going in: stainless steel doesn't rust the way carbon steel does, so RustSeal isn't doing rust prevention work in that spot. It's acting more as a protective, color matched coating.

The real challenge with stainless is adhesion. It's a smooth, hard surface that doesn't give RustSeal much to grip the way rusted or sandblasted steel does. Two prep routes will get you a solid bond:

  1. Lightly scuff the rivet heads with 400 grit sandpaper, clean with KBS Klean, then treat with RustBlast to etch the surface. Follow with a minimum of 2 thin coats of RustSeal.

  2. Clean with KBS Klean and add a light dust coat of Fusion SEP first. Fusion SEP is a self-etching primer that bonds to chrome, steel, aluminum, and other tough, smooth substrates, and it's the same method we recommend for blacking out chrome trim. Let it dry for about an hour, then apply RustSeal.

Either route should give you good adhesion. Since rivet heads are small and low risk, it's worth testing on one or two before committing to the whole set, just to confirm the finish holds.

Before you get started, take a few minutes to read through the full application directions for RustSeal and Fusion SEP linked below. What's above is a quick orientation, but the directions cover surface conditions, dry times, and other details that can make a real difference in how the finish holds up.

Reach back out with any questions as you get going on this.

  • Author

Just to clarify, The rivets do not need sanding when using Fusion SEP as they are hard to get too in some places in the Tender Tank.?

1 hour ago, Odyknuck said:

Just to clarify, The rivets do not need sanding when using Fusion SEP as they are hard to get too in some places in the Tender Tank.?

Yes that's correct. All you need to do is scuff them, and then clean them with a mild solution of KBS Klean, before applying the Fusion SEP.

Please reach out with any additional questions. We're happy to help.

  • Author

Ok, now I am confused as you originally stated scuff with 400 for using RustBlast and no Scuffing for using Fusion SEP? If I have to scuff for either product than no point in buying the fusion when I already have the RustBlast.

Let's go back...

Two prep routes will get you a solid bond:

  1. Lightly scuff the rivet heads with 400 grit sandpaper, clean with KBS Klean, then treat with RustBlast to etch the surface. Follow with a minimum of 2 thin coats of RustSeal.

  2. Clean with KBS Klean and add a light dust coat of Fusion SEP first. Fusion SEP is a self-etching primer that bonds to chrome, steel, aluminum, and other tough, smooth substrates, and it's the same method we recommend for blacking out chrome trim. Let it dry for about an hour, then apply RustSeal.

Which are you considering?

  • Author

You:

"Yes that's correct. All you need to do is scuff them, and then clean them with a mild solution of KBS Klean, before applying the Fusion SEP."

Me:

If no scuffing is required for Fusion SEP, then I would use that?

10 minutes ago, Odyknuck said:

Me:

If no scuffing is required for Fusion SEP, then I would use that?

Yes, if your desire is not to scuff, then use Fusion SEP as this will supply the adhesion promoter needed.

And sorry for the confusion. Next time we'll break this into multiple threads because many different topics were asked about and answered.

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