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Cure Time?

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Using the three step kit for the second time.  Hopefully as successful as the first. 

Question is how long should it cure before adding fuel. Ethanol free gas. 

When using the KBS Tank Sealer System, allow your tank to air-dry naturally in a well-ventilated area. Allow 96 hours for maximum cure. If applicable, always test the tank with water before re-filling with fuel.

 

Please review the complete Tank Sealer Directions and let us know if you have any additional questions.

  • 1 year later...

My application is for a 1 1/2" scale locomotive tender that only holds water. It is an open top tank so can the cure time be less?  I will be brushing the sealer on.

15 hours ago, Odyknuck said:

My application is for a 1 1/2" scale locomotive tender that only holds water. It is an open top tank so can the cure time be less?  I will be brushing the sealer on.

Yes, with the better air flow that comes from an open top, the cure time for Tank Sealer will be less.

 

Please review the complete Tank Sealer Directions and let us know if you have any additional questions.

So by how much as I am on a time constraint on this project and unfortunately this project was unforeseen.  It only holds water so I would not think cure time would be as needed for fuels.

We have not tested a tank with only three sides as this is not a standard application.

 

For one side, it is 24-48 hours full cure time. Obviously, one side has more air flow than three sides.

 

We understand you would like a precise answer, but we have not tested your specific application and there are quite a few variables leaving us unable to give you a precise answer.

 

Once the Tank Sealer is set up (no longer moving), add air flow and humidity. We know for a fact that will speed the cure time.

 

Please reach out with any additional questions.

Ok thanks for the input, my next question that working with an open tank there is no real good way to pour the liquids into the tank and roll it around. So what tips do you have on how to proceed?

Forgot to mention the tank is riveted to the base plate and will leak thru the seams.   It is already painted/powder coated on the outside. I have been sand blasting the rust off etc so I am also concerned about flash rust.

9 hours ago, Odyknuck said:

Ok thanks for the input, my next question that working with an open tank there is no real good way to pour the liquids into the tank and roll it around. So what tips do you have on how to proceed?

Tank Sealer and RustSeal are very similar products. The main difference is less pigmentation and slightly more viscous. So, apply Tank Sealer as you would RustSeal when brushing it on. Thin, covering coats. Minimum of two coats. Re-coating can be done once the first or consecutive coat is dry-to-touch and does not leave a fingerprint which is typically within 2-6 hours depending on temperature and humidity. If spraying, clean your spray gun immediately after using RustSeal.

 

+RustSeal Directions

 

Please reach out with any additional questions.

4 hours ago, Odyknuck said:

Forgot to mention the tank is riveted to the base plate and will leak thru the seams.   It is already painted/powder coated on the outside. I have been sand blasting the rust off etc so I am also concerned about flash rust.

Newly sandblasted (fresh and not recycled sand) metal surfaces that have been handled with gloved hands are the ideal choice for direct RustSeal applications as they require no preparation other than blowing off loose dust.

 

+RustSeal Directions

 

Please reach out with any additional questions.

So, I am having a hard time getting all the rust from inside the tank as its very tight in areas the sand blast gun can not be in a good position.  There is no loose rust, just imbedded.  I could brush on some of the prep on that helps. How forgiving is the sealer on this?

Yes, apply the KBS Klean and RustBlast with a sponge and also do the rinsing with a sponge. That is the easiest way to do that with a tank like you have.

 

Doing the prep (KBS Klean and RustBlast) would enhance adhesion, absolutely.

 

Please reach out with any additional questions.

3 hours ago, Odyknuck said:

So I finished the clean and etching steps and while drying it bflash rusted a lot, please advise.

 

image.jpeg

Yes, that looks quite normal. A very nice dusting of zinc phosphate which enhances the adhesion of the Tank Sealer.

 

Please reach out with any additional questions.

We tested full cure in our lab and then give that information on the directions. Cure is very dependent on temperature, humidity, and air flow.

 

For your non-standard application, our best advice is to add a fan (air flow) after the final coat of Tank Sealer is dry to touch and then full cure should be reached at 24 hours (taking that from the RustSeal Directions).

 

Please reach out with any additional questions.

70% is fine for humidity.

 

Please reach out with any additional questions.

It dropped to low 60%s after I closed up the shop. I ended up pouring the can in and applied like a regular tank however I did not drain enough out and had air bubbles. I slit them with a razor blade and used a steel roller to deflate them as best I could, we shall see!

Just throwing this out there. A lot of guys use bed liner to seal these tanks and it works well. Considering the current air bubble situation I have would it be prudent to spray a layer of it over the bottom only?

Quote

Considering the current air bubble situation I have would it be prudent to spray a layer of it over the bottom only?

 

Sure. No problem with that.

  • 2 months later...

So I have another tender to seal. This time its a brand new one that has been Powder Coated.  Will the sealer stick too it?

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