Den Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Hi KBS. I found the attached information on a forum. Please confirm it is all true. I am using it at my car club meetings in UK to spread the word on your products (I have used them for some time now. Attached information I wanted to respond to several of the replies in an effort to get the users the best outcome regardless of the product they choose to use. First both %&!-15 and RustSeal are closed cell urethanes, never shaken, always stirred. The fact that they are closed cell paints means you have to use thin coats, why? because the paint has to cure throughout it's thickness before the surface seals over unlike a conventional automotive paint where the solvents leach to the surface and evaporate leaving behind a pore in the surface. The good thing is a closed cell paint leaves a thicker effective layer of paint. With either product you need to end up with 4 to 4.5 mils of paint for automotive applications. If it's applied to thick the solvents won't have enough time to dry out before the surface seals over and the paint will lift from the metal. Because these are moisture cured products, it's the moisture in the atmosphere that cause the paints to cure. If it's really dry out it will take a long time to cure. Moisture soaked newspapers under your project will solve this. If the humidity is high they can cure so fast, especially with 1 mil or less coats, they may not have time to level out. Humidity levels are important when you apply it. This is why directions tell you not to paint out of the can!!! Every time you dip your brush into the can you are introducing oxygen and moisture into the paint in the can which starts the curing process. Rather stir the paint well, use a coffee scoop, so the rim stays clean, and dip out what you need into a glass jar and work from that. There are a couple of tricks to keep both of these from setting up in the can and lets face it our projects are expensive enough already. I restore old trucks. 1. As mentioned wrap a piece of cling film over the can, then push it down so it touches the paint in the top of the can and then come up over the side of the can and replace the lid 2. My Favourite --Put a self tapping screw with a rubber washer in the lid. Take the lid off and stir well. Replace the lid. Remove the screw and pour out what you need. Go over to your welder and put a puff of argon gas in the hole and replace the screw. The argon is heavier than oxygen so it settles into a layer separating the moisture containing oxygen from the paint in the can. Body shops keep open cans for two to three years this way. Unopened cans can be put in your freezer for long term storage. If you have streaks, stir stir and stir some more! Whats the difference between %&!-15 and KBS RustSeal, ◦ RustSeal is based on about 25 years newer chemistry. ◦ %&!-15 has 0 UV stability, RustSeal in all 10 colours has 90% UV stability ◦ %&!-15 always needs a UV stable top coat and RustSeal used somewhere not in direct sunlight, floorpans, chassis, etc has all the UV stability it needs and won't need a topcoat. But in direct sunlight, it too needs a 100% UV stable topcoat. ◦ RustSeal has a custom polymer used to eliminate adhesion issues that %&!-15 does not have. ◦ Rustseal much higher solids content 70% vs 20%. ◦ RustSeal cost is about 20% less The difference between RustSeal and Blacktop mentioned in one reply is, RustSeal like %&!-15 will give you protection from rust but neither has 100% UV stability. Blacktop is a 100% UV stable chassis topcoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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