My motorcycle is kinda beat up, so I've decided not to apply a top coat to the RustSeal since I understand that any degradation of the RustSeal coating will be purely cosmetic. Is this correct?

Also, how will the RustSeal (satin black) degrade? Will it just lose it's sheen, or will it turn grey or something?

The satin black will turn to a flat black, however in time it could start to rub off the black pigment. I'd just shoot a coat of KBS Top Coater 1K Aerosol or BlackTop Aerosol over the RustSeal.

If the pigment starts rubbing off, doesn't that mean the RustSeal coating is coming off with it too?

Should I spray a coat of paint on after it's started to fade or when I'm applying the RustSeal?

Sorry for the newbie questions by the way.

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If the pigment starts rubbing off, doesn't that mean the RustSeal coating is coming off with it too?

No. It is just the pigment and NOT the resin.

 

 

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Should I spray a coat of paint on after it's started to fade or when I'm applying the RustSeal?

Either way. You can topcoat it when your second coat (or final coat) of RustSeal is dry to the touch or after it has fully cured. If it has fully cured, it would be a good idea to scratch the surface up some so you get great adhesion or you can use the Fusion Self-Etch Primer.

 

You can find complete instructions for RustSeal here: https://www.kbs-coatings.com/rustseal-directions

 

Please reach back out if you have additional questions.

 

 

I'll just apply a topcoat right after I've applied the RustSeal.

Would you recommend a clear acrylic coating or regular black paint? I'm thinking the clear acrylic coating won't have any UV protection, but let me know what you think. I'll be using Krylon's products.

Thanks again for the informative replies.

I realized I didn't read the instructions carefully, I've swapped the clear topcoat I got for one that's satin black (same as the RustSeal color).

Will the topcoat "bond" with the RustSeal and be just as resistant to gasoline? I foresee dripping some gas on the tank while filling up.

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"Will the topcoat "bond" with the RustSeal and be just as resistant to gasoline? I foresee dripping some gas on the tank while filling up."

To guarantee adhesion, you will want rough up the RustSeal so you get great adhesion with your top coat.

 

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"Would you recommend a clear acrylic coating or regular black paint? I'm thinking the clear acrylic coating won't have any UV protection, but let me know what you think. I'll be using Krylon's products."

You will want to use an opaque top coat. Not a clear top coat. And you will want to use one that is resistant to your gasoline. What color are you looking for?

 

 

 

Thanks again for the response. I did some online research, and it seems the best affordable option was Rustoleum rattle can paint. It's not gasoline-proof, but apparently it's resistant enough that I shouldn't have any problems as long as I don't let it soak in gasoline. The ACE hardware didn't have satin black, so I just went with gloss black.

I also masked the recessed portion around the filler hole before spraying on the top coat, since gasoline is likely to accumulate and pool there after filling up. Shouldn't be a problem, since the filler cap covers that portion of the exposed RustSeal.

I have one question though: how do I know if the Gold Standard Sealer I applied in the tank has adhered well? The design of my tank made it impossible to drain out all the sealer, so I just tried to move the tank around to spread around the excess as much as possible. Even so, parts of the interior of the tank that I can see where the excess sealer ended up shows some minor bubbling. I'm worried about this, so perhaps some advice as to how much bubbling is acceptable? It feels rock hard when I tried to scratch it with my fingernail.

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"how do I know if the Gold Standard Sealer I applied in the tank has adhered well?"

If you followed the instructions (found here: https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer-directions), it will adhere well.

 

You will want to try not to get any bubbling. Bubbling means the coating is TOO THICK. But if you do and they are micro-bubbles that are just on the top of the surface of the coating, that will be fine because the coating is intact all the way through.

 

 

Ok, I think I'm good, the bubbles are the size of pinheads and spaced fairly far apart.