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Completely removing Kreem from tank


rv
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Hello,


I just spent the better part of the day using your strip to remove a failing Kreem liner in my tank. After several applications and rinses, I was able to get the majority of it out but some still remains.


It also doesn't help that the tank is oddly shaped and makes it difficult getting every nook and cranny.


My question is: does the Kreem have to be completely removed or just the majority of it?


Thanks much for any help.


-Randy


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Thanks Jim,


I've got a gallon of acetone soaking in the tank now and have been sloshing it around with some bits of bike chain as an aggregate. Hopefully through the weekend it'll make progress.


I'd recommend that you guys note this in your "Plus" instructions as well. I was hoping that the Strip would be enough but it's proving not. I think another gallon of acetone will be going through the tank before the actual reseal process even begins.


I know I already have 8 hours into removing the failed Kreem and several more ahead of me before I can be done.


-Randy


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Jim, on another note: all MEK and Acetone will do is soften the Kreem. I tested a piece that pulled off and soaked some in both solutions. All it managed to do was to soften it, not dissolve it as previously thought. As soon as you take it out, it shrivels up and dries out as the chemicals evaporate.


It amazes me how tough the stuff is yet how it made such a mess of my tank. I'm on day 4 of this Kreem removal debacle that has included:


-Strip

-1 Gallon of Acetone

-1 Pint of Mek

-Numerous rinses of water

-A tankful of bits of bicycle chain and drywall screws agitated and shaken every couple of hours in both solutions.


The stuff is coming out but is not completely leaving the tank, there are random patches of it clinging on here and there. I'm afraid to proceed with your coating if I can't get it all out and may just use the Rustblast and forgo the tank sealer for fear of it failing again. I really don't want to repeat the entire process again as well as outlay the money, I've spent $60 on chemicals so far, not including your kit.


If I were to do it all again, I'd have the tank completely stripped at a metal shop/radiator shop to ensure everything is out. The paint has seen some damage due to all the chemicals (no matter how careful I was) and only adds to the frustration.


I think that a complete strip is the only way to ensure ALL of the Kreem would be removed (of course EVERYTHING would be removed). The people that were able to get it all out using simialr techniques are either much luckier, more patient or just flat out lying because the stuff I'm finding is just that difficult to remove. I hate the person that owned my bike before me for it.


-Randy


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Well here is my final take on the Kreem saga.


After numerous washes with acetone and MEK, I resorted to using electrolysis to remove the majority of the remaining Kreem. Two days of monitoring and several swishes later, I would say that 85% of the Kreem was removed, the last remaining will be there for perpetuity or at least till it decides to peel off.


I decided then after washing all of the electrolysis solution out of the tank to use your Rust Blast on the flash rust and iron phosphate remaining in the tank (figured I payed for it, might as well use it). This restored the tank to a nice shade of silver on the inside and that's where I decided I'd done enough.


I caught all of the remaining Rust Blast and saved it (just in case) and sloshed around some acetone after the final rinses and called it good. I'll keep the tank topped off and just keep an eye on it for rust. I don't have confidence that the lining will take seeing that I was never able to completely remove the Kreem from the tank in the first place. It's easier for me to deal with the rust versus stripping out another failed liner.


Here is what I would suggest to someone taking on the same debacle:


-If you can thin out the strip, it should work better. Since you're inside the tank, it isn't as necessary for it to cling and I feel it would work better a bit thinner in consistency. If you have a power washer handy to blast the inside, this would help as well.


-I would use MEK over Acetone and shake the hell out of the tank with screws inside to loosen as much of the remaining Kreem as you can. Acetone is a bit easier to work with however and can be evaporated out faster.


-By using electrolysis, you should be able to loosen the remaining kreem (because it will have rust stuck to the backside of it) and neutralize the rust inside.


Once you've crossed that bridge, you can then go forward with the three-step process if you feel.


Total time not including KBC products: one week.


Hope this helps someone out.


-Randy


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  • 11 years later...

Colorado and maybe some other states banned MEK, so you can't buy it here and cannot have it shipped....legally.  I have two 5 gallon Jerry cans with Kreem lining. One has two spots that have the Kreem pop off. I will try to address them separately.  For the other tank the Kreem was coming off in big pieces, so, since I cannot get MEK, I tried something else that worked very well. I bought two quarts of Paint remover gel and poured it into the tank, then added two sections of chain and commenced to shaking it back and forth and rotating it every 15 minutes.  After an hour or so, I flushed it  out and a LOT of the Kreen was gone. Some was still adhearing to the one side and the top of the back of the tank. So I poured some more paint remover gel and readded the chain and shook it as before, but paid a bit more attention to the side that still had Kreem on it. All but maybe 4 pieces of Kreen were gone after flushing, and there was no rust anywhere. I then used the KBS RustBlast and was happy with the inside of the tank, so, on to the Gold Sealer.

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