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How To Prepare Metal Before Body Work To Prevent Future Rust A customer contacted us asking how to avoid future rust when performing auto body work. They were planning to weld in patch panels and apply body filler and wanted to be sure rust wouldn’t start at the site under where the body work was performed. They had a previous experience where rust bubbles appeared under the paint shortly after body work was performed and they didn’t want it to happen again. By taking the proper steps to prepare and seal or prime the metal before body work, future rust can be prevented. How Does Rust Form in New Body Work? Rust forms when exposed metal, oxygen, and moisture combine. So, even if body work has been recently performed, if there is any bare metal exposed to moisture, it will soon begin to rust. This doesn’t just apply to metal that’s visible, but in recessed areas where one might think moisture would never reach. Like overlapping joints where capillary action can draw moisture in between the panels. Gaps, nooks, and crevasses need to be thoroughly sealed away from moisture and oxygen. Properly Prepare Metal Before Body Work KBS Klean and RustBlast and can be used to thoroughly prepare metal before body work. If patch panels, or new body panels are being put in place, both the existing body panel and the panel to be added need to be prepared. KBS Klean - Powerful Concentrate Water Based Cleaner The first step to prepare metal before body work is to use KBS Klean, which is a strong, concentrated cleaner that removes dirt, dust, grime, grease, and other contaminants. KBS Klean is mixed with warm or hot water and used in unison with a bristle brush or scoring pad to clean the metal. Detailed instructions for use of KBS Klean can be found HERE. RustBlast The next step to prepare metal before body work is to use RustBlast to dissolve surface rust, etch the metal for adhesion of coatings, and deposit a zinc phosphate to aid in the adhesion of the coating or primer. Detailed instructions for use of RustBlast can be found HERE. Welding Metal Treated with RustBlast RustBlast leaves a coating of zinc phosphate. If the body panel is being welded, the coating can be left on the surface for the welding process. Properly Seal Metal with RustSeal and Cavity Coater After preparing the metal before body work has been completed, RustSeal, and KBS Cavity Coater are used to seal and protect the surface under the body work from moisture and oxygen. RustSeal RustSeal is applied after use of KBS Klean and RustBlast to permanently seal and protect metal. RustSeal is a high-performance, moisture cured, rust preventive paint. RustSeal is a single part (1K) formula that’s ready to use: Just stir and go. RustSeal is impervious to road salts and almost every chemical. RustSeal flows out to a beautiful, rock-hard, tough ceramic-like finish that is tough to chip or scratch and will not crack or peel. RustSeal can be brushed, rolled, or applied with spray equipment RustSeal Use with Patch Panels After patch panels have been welded into place, the body work site is again treated with KBS Klean and RustBlast before the application of RustSeal. RustSeal is then applied in a minimum of two thin covering coats, allowing the first or consecutive coat to dry-to-touch and not leave a fingerprint before the next coat of RustSeal is applied which is typically within 2-6 hours depending on temperature and humidity. It is very important to thoroughly coat the repair on both the front and backside to completely seal the metal. Detailed instructions for use of RustSeal can be found HERE. Patch panel before coating with RustSeal RustSeal Use with Body Filler When body filler is going to be applied, first prep and coat the area with RustSeal as previously described and allow RustSeal to cure for at least 24 hours. RustSeal then needs to be prepared before the application of body filler. This can be done in one of two ways. Scuffing Method Scuff the RustSeal with 320 grit sandpaper to provide grip for the body filler. Blow off the dust with clean compressed air. Self-Etching Primer Method To promote adhesion between the RustSeal and the body filler, KBS Fusion SEP self-etching primer is used. A dusting coat of Fusion SEP is all it takes, and the aerosol version of Fusion SEP works great and conveniently. Topcoating RustSeal RustSeal is not intended for use as a final finish when used where the coated surface will be consistently exposed to sunlight. Repeated or prolonged exposure to direct UV light will cause cosmetic alteration to its color and sheen. RustSeal’s guaranteed rust protective properties, however, will not degrade. There are three ways to topcoat RustSeal with solid color top coat paints or primers so that the coatings bond and fuse together. Apply the top coat or primer once the second or final coat of RustSeal is dry-to-the-touch (beyond tacky) and does not leave a fingerprint (usually 3-6 hours depending on temperature and humidity). Let the final coat of RustSeal fully cure (at least 24 hours), scuff the RustSeal with 320 grit sandpaper, then apply your top coat or primer. Let the second or final coat of RustSeal fully cure (at least 24 hours), dust the RustSeal with Fusion SEPr, let it cure for 30 minutes, then apply the top coat. Cavity Coater Cavity Coater is the perfect solution for sealing body work in hard-to-reach areas. Cavity Coater is incredible effective on the back sides of tge surfaces that were sealed with RustSeal on the front side. Cavity Coater is a single step, super-penetrating corrosion inhibiting coating (CIC) designed for long term protection of all metal surfaces. Cavity Coater provides a self-healing film that blocks moisture from reaching areas that can’t be accessed for coating with RustSeal. Cavity Coater wicks into welds and seams and resists road salt, alkaline solutions, and chemicals. For especially hard to-reach-areas the Cavity Wand extends the reach of aerosol Cavity Coater with a reusable 48” hose that features a 360-degree spray tip. The Cavity Wand requires only a 1/8” hole to insert and is easily cleaned. Questions? Auto body work is a labor-intensive undertaking. By taking the proper steps to prepare the metal and seal the metal before the body work, you can prevent pop off and repairs can last for the life of your vehicle. If you have any questions about using KBS Coatings to protect body work please let us know - Contact KBS Coatings.
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Cavity Wax Provides Rust Protection in Hard-to-Reach Areas Cavity wax is an excellent solution for providing rust protection in hard-to-reach areas. Rust develops when steel or iron is exposed to exposed to moisture and oxygen. To avoid rust it is necessary to seal the metal from these elements. While many areas of a car or truck can be easily reached to apply a rustproof paint or coating, other places are often difficult to reach, leaving the metal bare and exposed. Examples of these areas are inside frame rails, rocker panels, fenders, doors, tailgates, windshield cowls, and posts. Cavity wax can be used to provide a barrier against salt, dirt, and moisture in these areas as well as seal the welds and seams that rustproof paint or coating can’t reach. Cavity wax, also called rustproof wax, is a solvent-based water repellant wax that doesn’t completely harden but remains soft and pliable and therefore doesn’t crack, chip or peel. As well, it is self-healing if scratched. Because of its nature, cavity wax wicks into welds and seams. Cavity wax is often used when restoring vehicles and is important to use in body areas that have been repaired after an accident. Cavity wax is applied by spraying and is available in aerosol can versions as well as in paint cans for use in compressor driven wax spraying equipment like an auto body Schutz applicator type gun. The surface is coated with about a millimeter of cavity wax for proper coverage. In some cases where the wax cannot reach the area to be protected by the nozzle of the spray gun or aerosol can a piece of flexible hose, commonly called a spray wand, can be attached and to reach the cavities. The hose can be fed or snaked around corners and into areas that were previously out of reach. Spray wand inserted into cavity A cone-shaped nozzle disburses a stream of cavity wax perpendicular to the hose to help fully coat the cavity. Spraying while pulling the wand from the cavity at a rate of about two inches per second works best. Also, as the extension cavity wax wand is pulled from a cavity, individuals using the spray-gun should release the spray-gun trigger to avoid overspray. Close Up of spray wand tip Before the wax is applied the surface should be as free as possible of grease, wax, and readily accessible loose scaly rust. When applying inside cavities, make sure that all drain holes remain open. Cavity wax should not be applied to exhaust systems as it will produce smoke and can be flammable. It’s important to know that any grinding, cutting, or heating with a torch can cause the cavity wax to run. Any work which raises a part’s temperature above 160°F should be done before cavity wax is applied. KBS Coatings offers Cavity Coater as a solution for providing rust protection in hard-to-reach areas. Cavity Coater is a single step, super-penetrating corrosion inhibiting coating (CIC) designed for long term protection of all metal surfaces. It provides a self-healing cavity wax film tested to render more than four thousand hours of salt spray protection; over 4 times the protection of conventional cavity waxes. Cavity Coater resists road salt, alkaline solutions, and chemicals and for especially hard to-reach-areas the Cavity Wand is offered to extend the reach of aerosol Cavity Coater with a reusable 48” hose that features a 360-degree spray tip. The Cavity Wand requires only a 1/8” hole to insert and is easily cleaned. Cavity Coater is available in quart, gallon, and aerosol versions. Cavity wax is an excellent solution for providing rust protection in hard-to-reach areas and is perfect for brand new and older vehicles. KBS Coatings Cavity Coater product information is available HERE. Videos demonstrating use of Cavity Coater and the Cavity Wand can be seen HERE.
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Rust Converter versus Removing Rust and Sealing Metal – Which Protects Metal Longest? Most everyone knows that once metal starts to rust it will continue to rust until the metal is completely eaten away. So, it’s important to stop rust as soon as it’s discovered. Here we will discuss two methods used to stop rust. The first is using rust converter to convert the rust to an inert primed layer that can stand alone or be painted over. The second is to completely remove the rust from the metal, and then apply a rust preventive paint or coating to protect the metal. Both techniques will stop rust and seal the metal from moisture and oxygen to keep it from rusting in the future. However, results will vary when it comes to how long the metal can be kept free from future rust and what the quality and appearance of the finish will be. Method – Using Rust Converter Rust converter will stop rust, however the finish quality is rough Rust converter, also known as rust reformer, is a chemical solution or primer that can be directly applied to the metal surface to convert iron oxide (rust) to a protective chemical barrier that is resistant to moisture and protects the surface from further corrosion. Rust converter is comprised of phosphoric acid or tannic acid or a blend of both. Phosphoric acid rust converter turns the iron oxide into a ferric phosphate inert layer. It can be used on metal parts that are exposed to exterior weather conditions if it is top coated with a quality paint or coating. Tannic acid produces a protective bluish-black ferric tannate inert primer layer, which can stand alone to protect against exterior weather conditions or be painted over for better appearance. The layer acts as an excellent primer for both oil and epoxy-based paints. Rust converter can be used on any rusty iron or steel object; however, it will not work on aluminum, copper, stainless steel, or galvanized metal. Benefits of Using Rust Converter With the rust stop techniques being discussed here it is necessary to first remove any loose or flaking rust with a stiff bristle brush, wire wheel, or sandpaper before using rust converter. This is done to provide a stable surface. It’s important to not remove all rust since it would defeat the purpose of rust converter which chemically bonds to rust and seals it in. Application of rust converter is a simple and quick procedure compared to eliminating rust and sealing the metal with a rust preventive coating. This is especially advantageous when time to complete the project is limited or the object is large and thorough rust removal would be highly labor-intensive. Drawbacks of Using Rust Converter When done properly, eliminating rust, and sealing the metal with a rust preventive paint or coating can provide a longer lasting solution than rust converter. While time and labor are reduced on the front end with rust converter, the procedure will have to be repeated before too long. In some cases, a good rust elimination and metal seal job can provide protection from future rust four to five times longer than using rust converter. Another consideration is that finish quality can be compromised when using rust converter. Eliminating rust typically provides a smoother surface for rust preventative paints and coatings, which allows for a smoother and better appearing final finish. Also, rust converter is designed to bond to rust. So, it won’t work on non-rusty surfaces or surfaces where there are a mix of rusty and non-rusty areas. KBS Rust Converter KBS coatings offers Rust Converter that easily converts a rusty surface in to a black, inert primed surface that is ready for paint and is compatible with most topcoats. It is offered in aerosol form for easy application and is fast drying. More information is available here. Method - Remove rust and seal the metal with a paint or coating Rust removed, and metal sealed with a coating For stopping rust, the best and longest lasting result is achieved by eliminating rust and then using a primer to seal the metal from moisture and oxygen and then applying a top coating with paint or other coating. It’s important that the rust is thoroughly removed and a strong bonding and durable paint or coating is applied. Rust Removal Rust can be removed with chemicals, solvents, and abrasives. As when using a rust converter, the initial step is to remove loose flaking rust with a stiff bristled brush or sandpaper. The following are examples of rust removal methods. Chemicals and Solvents White Vinegar - White vinegar will dissolve rust when the metal is soaked in the for a few hours. This leaves a “rusty paste” which can be scrubbed off with a stiff brush. For objects too large to directly soak in white vinegar a layer of vinegar can be poured on and after allowing time to set the metal can be scrubbed off. Oxalic Acid – Oxalic acid is a compound that is odorless and appears as a white crystalline solid. When mixed with water it produces a colorless and odorless solution. As it is an acid, care must be taken during handling, including gloves, a mask, and safety goggles. The metal object is then soaked in the solution. Results can be seen within 20 minutes, though in cases of heavy rust, it can be soaked for up to 24 hours. Petroleum-Based Solvents - Products like WD-40 can be used to remove rust and are not as corrosive or toxic as acids. Expect to wait up to 24 hours for petroleum-based solvents to take full effect. Water Based Rust Removers - Acid-free, water-based rust removers lift the rust from the metal through a process called chelation. Chelation causes molecules within the rust removal solution to bond with rust and draw it away from the underlying metal and into a substrate. The rusty object is typically immersed in the solution, or the rust remover is sprayed on. The rusted object is then left for 30 minutes to remove light rust, or up to overnight for extremely heavy rust. Abrasives Using abrasives is a mechanical form of rust removal which easily removes rust. Examples are sanding by hand or use of power tools like an angle grinder, sander, or a drill fitted with a surface finishing disc, cup brushes, or wire wheels. Sandblasting is also a popular and easy way to remove rust and it provides the metal with a surface texture that allows paint to firmly bond. Painting/Coating After rust has been removed the metal needs to be sealed to prevent it from rusting in the future. A primer is applied and then is usually top coated with a paint or coating. Of note, some paints include a primer in their formulation. Primer While metal paint primer is not always a requirement, it is always recommended, especially if the metal will be in contact with moisture. Depending on the type of paint or coating used as a top coat, the metal may or may not require primer to seal it before the top coat is applied. There are a variety of primers available and most popular are self-etching primer and epoxy primer. Self-Etching Primer - provides a strong bond to the surface and prepares and seals metal from air and moisture. Self-etching primer uses an acid to micro-etch the metal for a slightly rough “anchor pattern” surface profile (like that achieved by sandblasting) that provides increased grip for the primer which in turn provides a strong base for the top coat for best overall adhesion. Some self-etching primers deposit a layer of zinc phosphate for increased adhesion. Self-etching primer cures quickly, which helps reduce project times. Epoxy primer provides excellent adhesion when priming metal but because it doesn’t etch the metal like self-etching primer. The proper surface profile must be created manually by sanding the surface with 80 to 180-grit sandpaper, or by sandblasting. Of note, epoxy primers take longer to cure than self-etching primer. Paint or Coating When top coating the primer it is important that the top coat is compatible with the primer. No type of paint will bond to unprepared epoxy paint. Because epoxy painted surfaces don’t allow adhesion, they must be abraded before they will accept new paint. Sanding the old epoxy finish with a 120 to 220 grit sandpaper will promote adhesion. Once the epoxy has been abraded, any type of paint will bond to it. Benefits of removing rust and seal the metal with a paint or coating As long as the job is done effectively, the best and longest lasting result for stopping rust is achieved by eliminating the rust and then sealing the metal from moisture and oxygen. Also, the finish quality is better than using rust converter. Drawbacks of removing rust and seal the metal with a paint or coating One drawback of removing rust and sealing the metal with a paint or coating are that it the procedure is labor intensive compared to using a rust converter. Also, the cost of materials will usually be higher. However, in this case you certainly get what you pay for. KBS Coatings 3-Step System KBS Coatings offers the user-friendly 3-Step System to stop rust. It performs all the functions necessary to properly remove rust and seal the metal for the best long-term protection against rust. After removing any loose or flaking with a stiff bristled brush, or sandpaper KBS Klean, a biodegradable cleaner that removes dirt, oil, grease, and other contaminants is applied and scrubbed with a scrub brush or scouring pad. Next RustBlast, a water based and biodegradable solution is applied to dissolve and neutralize rust. As well, it acts as a pre-paint primer, and provides the metal with an etched surface profile for solid paint adhesion. After spraying on it is left to sit (while keeping wet) for about 30 minutes and then is rinsed off with water. Finally, RustSeal, a single part coating that seals metal away from moisture and oxygen is brushed, sprayed, or rolled on to form an attractive, tough, ceramic-like coating that is hard to chip or scratch, and won’t crack or peel. More information on the KBS 3-Step System can found here. So, what’s best for stopping rust? Ultimately, it will come down to your goal for protection longevity and visual appeal. KBS Rust Converter will do a good job of stopping rust and is a relatively quick process compared to eliminating rust and sealing the metal with a paint or coating. However, it won’t protect metal as long and the finish quality won’t be as smooth and attractive.
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doing my ford 36 coupe, the bottom of my doors were rusted heavy in some areas not in others. I made new bottoms for my doors and welded them in I want to put something in to stop rust that is still present and seal & stop future rust.
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Does the Cavity Coater kill the rust, and what do mean when you say self healing?
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Recoating a 1984 Correct Craft boat trailer. Currently mostly Rustolium red paint. How to prepare for your coating in oxide red?