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  1. That is a great point Gary! I have a "test light" I use and may try and put a DC inverter on it after my next test spray. I am getting used to the settings on the HVLP gun for the best application of DC on headlights.
  2. Hi, thanks for the follow-up. I needed up not using that air brush for the DC any more. The company advertised a 2" wide pattern, but it was not even close to that wide. I spray just thinner through it, and the air brush is great for small detail work, but NOT a replacement for a "jamb gun" or HVLP detail gun. So I bought a Bostich 6a pancake compressor (best reviews in its class by far) and a Harbor Freight detail HVLP gun. Even though the HF gun says it needs 3.2-5.6 CFM, and my compressor puts out only 2.6CFM at 90 psi and 3.7 @40 PSI, it works GREAT for headlights. I wouldn't try and
  3. So is it o.k. to be used in place of a painter's wax/grease remover?
  4. It seemed better thinned more, however I don't think my Paasche D500 air compressor is putting our enough CFM or PSI for the still relatively thick coating. The stream of clear is really narrow. It is supposed to be 2" wide according to my air brush mfg. But my air compressor just started making a clunking noise. I'm going to get a small hotdog style compressor and see if the increased pressure helps. The TCP Global G70 air brush might need more PSI/CFM. My compressor's air gauge is shop, so I can't confirm how much PSI it is putting out right now. Once I get that squared away, I'll to
  5. OK, I THINK I get it. You are saying it stabilizes the "plastic" against UV damage?
  6. Thank you! I'll try these steps tomorrow! I looked at my "test light", on the side, it sprayed w/o any solvent bubbles. I may have sprayed the side: 1. Faster, making the coating thinner or 2. closer or farther away from the front of the lens. The air pressure, airbrush settings, weather, humidity, and all other factors were the same. So it's probably my technic with the DC and getting used to it. I am hopeful!! Does DC require a "tack coat" like most other auto body clears, or is a single thin full coverage coat ok? I am doing this as a mobile business-
  7. I thinned it 1 table spoon Diamond Clear to just half a teaspoon (about 25% or so)#1 thinner. It sprayed well with my DA airbrush, and Paasche D500 compressor. Which is only able to put out up to 40 psi and .5CFM at 20psi. I got quite a few solvent bubbles, but kind of random, so I think it might be related to my technic with the DC (first time trying it in the airbrush), but I remember getting some when brushing it with a foam brush too. It is 72* here in FL now, low humidity. Any advice? Hard to photo but they are there.
  8. But that isn't explaining "how" it will keep your headlights from yellowing. I'm not saying it does not prevent yellowing, but I don't understand how it "helps" it. If the polycarbonate under can be reached through the Diamond Clear, by the UV rays, how is it better than nothing? Thank you.
  9. Hi KBS, how does this clear coat stop the headlights from yellowing again, vs. just polishing the lights?
  10. Hi, I received my DFC (Diamond Finish Clear) and have been trying to experiment with brushing it on an old headlight (properly sanded and prepped) I have for headlight lens restoration. I bought the 4oz can to start (with KBS thinner, Paint Saver, and KBS Clean). I first tried brushing it on with a foam brush straight, but predictably it was too thick and dried with waves. I then added up to 1 teaspoon of KBS Thinner to to the (almost) 4oz DFC and mixed it. I then applied it to another section of the headlight. It was better, but still seemed "wavy" and not really optically clear. I gues
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