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Yes, absolutely. Humidity and airflow will speed up the cure of DiamondFinish Clear and when this is done AFTER the initial dry down, there are no adverse side effects. Please reply with any additional questions you have.

Thank you! That helps a lot, and explains why my timelines weren’t lining up with what was estimated by the tech sheet. Yes I put several thinned layers on, they were given 10-24h between each coat. Small follow up, after initial “dry down” (eg, dry to finger touch, no print left) is it okay for me to significantly increase humidity/heat to help speed up complete cure? Or will this result in micro bubbles under the surface. I was thinking of creating a cure box with an average humidity of 75-80% & temp of 66F-70F (could go as warm as 75-80F though, if the micro bubbles wouldn’t happen!) thanks for your time and knowledge!

7 days is the full cure time for DiamondFinish Clear under normal atmospheric conditions (temperature and humidity) and when thin coats of DiamondFinish Clear are applied. Thinning or reducing DiamondFinish Clear will slow down the cure and can add to that 7 day timeframe. You have applied a total of 20 mils, correct? An average correctly applied coat of DiamondFinish Clear should be 2-3 mils. So, it seems like maybe the coats were applied heavy which will also cause an extended cure time. We are looking forward to hearing back from you.

In general, most that have tanks like this (where draining is very difficult or impossible) will use clean shop rags to dab up the excess Tank Sealer. You can then let the rags harden up and throw them away. Please be sure to check out the Complete Tank Sealer Directions: https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer-directions.html Please let us know if that helps and if you have any additional questions.

About to seal the tank for my 2006 GSXR750 but the shape of the tank does not have any opening at low spots so I can’t drain the excess by just having it pour out. For the cleaner and acid I was able to siphon out whatever I couldn’t dump out but the sealer is too thick for a siphon. Any suggestions?

Hello! I’ve been using KBS diamond for some projects here, and I’ve waited 96H & a week after my last coat (4-5 coats, thinned, brushed, roughly 500um ~ thickness)… both times moisture leeched in (I put a lil’ food colouring in the water so I can check if moisture gets in visually) I kept the objects at 50-65 humidity for the first two days, and elevated it to 70-80% for the rest of the week. I’m wondering if this is insufficient cure time before moisture exposure? Thanks for your time!

Sounds good, it's kinda what I thought, just wanted to be sure. Thanks

For your floorplan, apply the next coat of KBS BedLiner once the previous coat of KBS BedLiner is dry-to-the-touch and does not leave a fingerprint (usually 1-2 hours depending on temperature and humidity). Please let us know if that helps and if you have any additional questions.

Best practice is to wait 48 hours after the final coat of DiamondFinish Clear Aerosol before taping the surface. Please let us know if that helps and if you have additional questions.

How long should I wait before I put masking on top of satin or gloss aerosol. My project has gloss and satin parts. So I need to mask off one or the other to achieve my finished project. Thanks.

I plan to coat the floorpan of my car with KBS BedLiner as an added protection and/or to help prevent road noise. When reading the provided instructions, I see that there's a 8-10 hour cure time recommended before getting into the truck bed to make touch ups. I feel that my use case will be slightly different since I won't have to stand on the coating to recoat. Can you advise what the recommended time is between coats if I don't have to stand on the surface to reacoat (like the underside of the car)? Is there a way to check the coating to ensure it's ready for another coat? Thanks in advance!

Yes there is some risk when not coating the entire inside of the tank, albeit minor, and this is why it is best practice to coat the entire inside surface of the tank with Tank Sealer and not leave edges. Doing what is considered best practice is not always possible, so you do the next best thing which is prep the surface well and coat what you can. The tanks are removed from the tank, so if you take your time and apply common sense, you can coat the entire inside of the tank. It simply takes time and patience. Please be sure to carefully follow the Tank Sealer Directions. Please let us know if that helps and please reply with additional questions you have.

Hello there, I have two 100 gallon aluminum gas tanks removed from my boat. There are no access holes to brush your product onto the baffle walls however I'm fairly certain I can coat entire bottom, top and sides but not certain I can get the two baffles covered. Will I run the risk of of your product lifting if I cannot fully coat the baffles? If so any ideas or tips to get 100% coverage? Thanks!

We do have some tips. Use duct tape to tape heavy painters plastic to the inside of the filler neck/area and the drape the heavy painters plastic over the outside of the tank to protect your paint job from KBS Strip. Take your time when using the KBS Strip to remove the previous coating. Most accidents happen when we are in a rush. Use common sense. That is the best tool in our tool belt. We can often avoid most mistakes when we apply common sense ahead of time. Please let us know if that helps and if you have any additional questions.

Are you able to post some pictures? This is typically because of excess film thickness of DiamondFinish Clear or not enough time between coats of DiamondFinish Clear, but pictures would be incredibly useful to give you the best advice possible. We are looking forward to hearing back from you.

I have been spraying kbs dimaond clear for a week now and occasionally i would get bubbles on my fishing lure why does that happen and how could i prevent it?

Hey guys. Love your restoration products. Hands down the BEST!!! One issue I have is the paint on most of my motorcycle tanks are in great shape. No repainting is going to be done. I need to protect the paint in some way only for the accidental drip or drop of chemicals. Do you recommend any protection methods of the painted surfaces? My thought goes to duck tape. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Great question. You have a few options. 1) Do the RustBlast step again including rinsing with water this time. OR 2) Wipe the surface down with a sponge dipped in clear water to rinse the surface. After you have done either of those options, let the surface get Bone Dry, and then proceed to the RustSeal step. You be sure to review the complete RustSeal Rust Protection Directions and do not hesitate to reach back out to us with any additional questions.

Hi, I’m working on a Jeep frame. I have sandblasted most of it and I used rust blast on some hard to get areas. I also sprayed most of the main rail areas with Rustblast to knock done the surfaces rust. Unfortunately I got distracted and let the rust blast dry without rinsing. Can I coat with rust seal as is? Or do I need to go back and sand blast again? Or would it be possible to rewet with rust blast and then rinse? What are my options?

Thanks for the Reply- that makes sense as a product to bond to the Diamond. I will keep you updated on project.

Clean the clear coated surfaces well with KBS Klean and a scotch brite pad. Then allow the surface to get bone dry. Then dust the surface with a light coat of Fusion SEP. Then paint with your acrylics, allowing them to fully cure before apply DiamondFinish Clear. Please let us know if that helps and if you have any additional questions.

Hello , I am involved in a project restoring a Carousel made in the 1990's. It was painted about three years ago and lived outside and the the Diamond Gloss still looks like new. Condition of underlying paint is perfect. We do want to repaint the horses though. The plan is to prime and repaint with a water based acrylic to modify the colors. Then to clear coat again with Diamond . The material of the carousel horses under the paint is aluminum. I realize this is a hard Cured Urethane surface. We would of course scuff and de grease. We would want primer to be compatible with artist mural acrylics such as Nova color. What are our primer options- would there be any more house painting type of product available- a high grade Benjamin Moore Waterborn for instance . If we need to go with an automotive product would we need to top coat with another acrylic friendly primer as an inter-coat. Also are there issues with re-coat times. After priming the idea is for an extended time before finish and clear coating. Thanks for your input.

Engine Block Sealer And Engine Block Coating RustSeal and KBS Tank Sealer are excellent engine block sealer options for coating and sealing the inside of an engine block. Why should the inside of an engine block need to be sealed? Typically, “sealing an engine” is thought of as using gaskets to seal the surfaces of adjoining fluid filled engine components to prevent leakage. For example, a valve cover gasket, an oil pan gasket, or a main seal. However, we are referring to sealing the inside surfaces of the engine block. Sealing the inside of an engine block, often referred to as "block sealing" or "block coating," can provide performance, durability, and maintenance benefits and solve or avoid a number of problems. Porosity – Some engine blocks can be porous, meaning they have tiny holes in the casting through which oil and antifreeze can seep. This is also known as “sweating”. The holes can be caused by gases and contaminants trapped in the metal during the casting process. Sealing a porous engine block can stop seepage. Corrosion - Sealing the inside of the engine block helps prevent corrosion by creating a protective barrier between the metal surfaces and the moisture and acids present in engine fluids. Lubrication - By sealing and smoothing the inside surfaces of an engine block, oil shedding can be improved and prevent the accumulation of oil in certain areas. As well, it can smooth oil flow through passages. Sealing the inside surfaces of an engine block promotes more effective lubrication, increases heat dissipation, and reduces the risk of oil-related problems. Sealing the inside of an engine block addresses issues related to porosity, corrosion, and lubrication, and can contribute to the overall longevity and reliability of the engine by allowing the fastest oil return to the sump. What surfaces are typically sealed with engine block sealant? Crankcase Lifter valleys Other oil return passages What are important traits of engine block sealer? Engine block sealer needs to be able to perform in extreme environments without failing, and meeting the following criteria is highly important: Adhesion - Engine block sealer must be able to strongly bond to metal to create a reliable and long-lasting seal. As well, engine block sealer must remain adhered, so it does not peel off and create problems with plugging oil filters, oil pump screens, or oil passages. Flexibility - Engine block sealer must be flexible to handle engine vibrations, thermal expansion, and contraction without cracking or losing its seal. Chemical Resistance - Engine block sealer should be resistant to a wide range of fluids, including engine oil and coolant. Temperature Resistance - The sealant must be able to withstand high temperatures generated by the engine as well as low temperatures without breaking down or losing its sealing properties. Compatibility - Engine block sealant must be compatible various metals such as aluminum, cast iron, and other alloys. Durability - Engine block sealer needs to provide a durable and long-lasting seal. Sealing engine blocks with RustSeal or KBS Gold Standard Tank Sealer RustSeal and KBS Tank Sealer use single component moisture curing polymeric isocyanate formulations engineered to strongly bond to and seal metal creating a smooth, tough, hard yet flexible coated surface making RustSeal and KBS Tank Sealer perfect for use as an engine block sealer. Incredible adhesion to prepared ferrous and non-ferrous metals to seal. Excellent coating flow out for a smooth finish that improves oil shedding and oil passage flow. Thorough sealing of porous engine blocks Corrosion prevention Flexible to allow engine block expansion and contraction with heat. Impervious to fuels, oils, and chemicals. Withstand temperatures up to 600F which is more than enough for oil cooled engines. Incredibly durable and long lasting Using RustSeal or KBS Tank Sealer as an engine block sealer comes down to personal preference. KBS Tank Sealer is silver-gray in color and the formulation is slightly more viscous than RustSeal for increased spreadability. RustSeal is available in a wide variety of colors. Another consideration is the sheen of the finish, which is important for oil shedding and flow. Glossy finishes work the best. KBS Tank Sealer is glossy RustSeal comes in a variety of glossy colors. What is the best engine block sealing procedure? The interior surfaces of the block that will be coated must be properly prepared with KBS Klean and RustBlast to ensure strong coating adhesion. Before beginning the preparation and coating procedure, block off/plug areas not to be coated or prepped. KBS Klean Before applying engine block sealer, the surfaces to be coated must be impeccably clean. Any oil, grease, grunge must be thoroughly cleaned away. KBS Klean is a concentrated cleaner that is mixed with warm or hot water and is used to scrub the inside of the block. Cleaner residue on the surface of metal can interfere with coating adhesion. When rinsed, KBS Klean leaves no residue. Instructions for use of KBS Klean can be found HERE. RustBlast RustBlast is a powerful acid etch, rust remover and zinc phosphate pre-primer. RustBlast effectively dissolves rust, corrosion, metal oxides, and tarnish from most metal surfaces and etches the surface for best adhesion of RustSeal and KBS Tank Sealer. Surfaces to be coated are scrubbed with RustBlast and a Scotch Brite pad. Instructions for use of RustBlast can be found HERE. Applying RustSeal or KBS Tank Sealer to the inside of an engine block Both RustSeal and KBS Tank Sealer can be applied with a brush, or with spray equipment. Solvents in the coatings need to evaporate properly for the best adhesion. Light coats work better than thick coats. Instructions for use of RustSeal can be found HERE. This same application procedure followed for RustSeal is followed for KBS Tank Sealer in this circumstance because you are brushing or spraying the KBS Tank Sealer. Want to know more? Have questions about how to seal and coat the inside of your engine with paint? Please reach out HERE!

What’s The Best Rust Preventive Coating? How does RustSeal compare with cold galvanizing compounds and zinc rich coatings for rust protection and rust prevention. The primary purpose of all these coatings are to protect against rust or rust prevention, and all can be applied with a roller, brush, or spray equipment. However, RustSeal prevents rust and corrosion in a very different way than cold galvanized compounds and zinc rich coatings. What are cold galvanizing compounds? Cold galvanizing compounds are coatings that contain zinc particles and are used to provide corrosion protection and rust protection on metal surfaces. Cold galvanizing is a term used to describe the application of a zinc-rich coating without the need for hot-dip galvanizing, which involves immersing the metal in molten zinc. Cold galvanizing compounds are often used for touch-ups, repairs, or as a quick corrosion protection solution for steel surfaces. They are commonly applied in the field where hot-dip galvanizing may not be practical. The primary active ingredient of cold galvanizing compounds is zinc dust or zinc powder. Zinc is a corrosion-resistant metal and serves as a sacrificial anode, corroding in place of the underlying steel or iron. How does a sacrificial anode work? A sacrificial anode is a component made from a metal that is more reactive to corrosion than the metal it is intended to protect. The idea behind sacrificial anodes is based on galvanic corrosion, where the more reactive metal (zinc in this case) sacrifices itself to protect the less reactive metal surface. What are zinc rich coatings? Zinc-rich coatings include cold galvanizing compounds but also include other zinc impregnated coatings, like epoxy or polyurethane zinc-rich coatings, that are used for a variety of applications beyond touch-ups such as industrial coatings for structures, pipelines, marine environments, etc. Like cold galvanization, zinc rich coatings use zinc as a sacrificial anode to prevent rust. What is RustSeal? RustSeal is a single part (no activator required) moisture cured, high solids content, rust preventive coating. When applied, RustSeal flows out to a beautiful, rock-hard, tough ceramic-like coating that is tough to chip or scratch and will not crack or peel. RustSeal has incredible adhesion to prepped bare metal (ferrous and non-ferrous) surfaces and prepped galvanized surfaces. While cold galvanized and zinc rich coatings prevent rust and corrosion by implementing zinc as a sacrificial agent, RustSeal does its work by forming a permanent non-porous barrier against moisture and oxygen. Without moisture and oxygen present, metal can’t rust. This is lifetime protection versus sacrificial protection which only lasts a finite period of time. How does RustSeal compare against zinc coatings? Here is how RustSeal outperforms the zinc coatings to be the best rust preventive coating. Surface Preparation Whether prepping metal for RustSeal, cold galvanizing compounds, or zinc rich coatings the surface must be clean and free of surface contaminants. All rust must be removed before applying the zinc coatings; however, RustSeal can be applied to light surface rust to stop and prevent future rust. This saves preparation time and labor. Appearance The appearance of zinc-rich coatings are typically not as smooth or aesthetically pleasing as RustSeal. This can be a consideration in applications where appearance is important. For appearance, RustSeal the best rust preventive coating. In addition, sacrificial corrosion can lead to changes in the appearance of cold galvanizing compounds and zinc rich coatings over time. RustSeal is a permanent coating and maintains its original finish quality. Maintenance As galvanic corrosion relies on the depletion of the zinc to protect the underlying metal, the protective capability of cold galvanizing compounds and zinc rich coatings diminish over time. Eventually, the coating will need to be reapplied or touched up. Once again, RustSeal is a permanent coating and maintains its original high-performance characteristics. For low maintenance considerations, RustSeal is the best rust preventive coating choice. Coverage Cold galvanization compounds and zinc-rich coatings may not provide as thick a protective layer as RustSeal. The thickness of the coating is essential for optimal corrosion resistance, and in certain environments a thicker coating is needed. Cold galvanization compounds and zinc-rich coatings may not be suitable for applications where the metal is constantly immersed in water. However, RustSeal will keep water away from metal for the lifetime of the surface or object when immersed making RustSeal the best rust preventive coating choice in this case. Non-Ferrous Metals Non-ferrous metals, such as aluminum, copper, and brass, do not contain iron and therefore do not benefit from zinc coating as ferrous metals do. However, RustSeal is equally effective sealing ferrous metals from rust as RustSeal and sealing non-ferrous metal from corrosion. Conclusion Cold galvanizing compounds and zinc-rich coatings have provided critical rust protection in the past and they were the best options available. But, like all technologies, coatings technologies have advanced over the years and there are better options for rust protection these days and RustSeal incorporates these new resins and coating technologies. Cold galvanizing compounds and zinc-rich coatings only provide a sacrificial system which only lasts a period of time until all of the zinc has been used up whereas RustSeal, thanks to using the newest in coating technologies, forms a permanent non-porous barrier to protect against rust for a lifetime. Want to know more? Have questions about how to black out chrome trim with paint? Please reach out HERE!

How to Black Out Chrome Trim with Paint Customers ask how to black out the chrome trim on their cars and trucks in a way that they will get great looking, durable, and long-lasting results. We recommend they black out chrome trim with paint, and specifically, by spraying chrome trim black with BlackTop in OEM Satin Black finish. Why Do People Want To Paint Chrome Trim Black Blacked out chrome trim has become more and more popular. Blacking out chrome gives a car or truck a custom, sporty, and aggressive look and the contrast of the blacked out trim against the vehicle’s paint color can be quite dramatic. Painting chrome trim black is also a way to improve the appearance of trim that has been damaged or discolored. Chrome can become scratched. Airborne pollutants, road debris can accumulate and cause discoloration. Corrosion is also a culprit and can lead to discoloration and pitting. Oxidation can dull the shine and cause discoloration. All of these blemishes can be hidden with paint. The procedure to black out chrome trim with paint is relatively simple and something vehicle owners can do themselves which makes it a popular choice for those who enjoy DIY automotive projects. What Automotive Trim Pieces Are Commonly Blacked Out? BlackTop is used to: Black out chrome window trim Black out chrome grilles Black out chrome emblems and badges Black out chrome door handles Black out chrome bumpers and trim accents Black out chrome exhaust tips Black out chrome interior trim Best Black Paint For Chrome Trim BlackTop paint in OEM Satin Black finish is absolutely ideal to black out chrome trim. BlackTop also comes in Gloss Black and Flat Black when those sheens are desired. BlackTop is a 1K, moisture cured, UV stable, single stage exterior grade paint. BlackTop provides a deep and rich look and is specifically formulated to withstand dulling and fading caused by prolonged sunlight exposure. BlackTop adheres strongly and is rock hard yet flexible for superior impact resistance. BlackTop can be applied with a brush, roller, or spray equipment and BlackTop has excellent self-leveling properties, so BlackTop does not show brush marks. Most people prefer to spray when painting chrome trim black, and for this purpose we have a convenient aerosol version. Preparing Chrome Trim For Paint Adhesion, adhesion, adhesion! Strong adhesion is key when painting chrome trim so that the paint won’t crack, flake, or peel. For the best adhesion we recommend preparing chrome with a combination of KBS Klean and a dust etching coat of Fusion Self-Etching Primer. KBS Klean KBS Klean is a powerful, concentrated, water-based cleaner that removes dirt, grime, grease, and other contaminants. KBS Klean does not leave a residue, which is vital for paint and coating adhesion. Fusion SEP (Self-Etch Primer) Fusion SEP is an incredible all-purpose self-etching-primer for direct to surface priming of bare surfaces such as chrome, steel, brass, aluminum, and most hard plastics. It is also ideal for promoting adhesion between multiple coatings. In this case being between the chrome coating and BlackTop. Surface Preparation Procedure Follow this procedure for the best adhesion of paint to chrome. Scrub the chrome trim with KBS Klean to completely remove dirt, grease, wax, and other contaminants. Rinse with clean water and dry thoroughly. Instructions for use of KBS Klean can be found HERE. Mask off areas not to be painted with masking tape and paper. Apply a single light dust coat of Fusion SEP to the chrome trim and allow to completely dry. Instructions for use of Fusion SEP can be found HERE. Application Of BlackTop Trim Paint To Chrome Trim The final step to black out chrome trim with paint is to apply BlackTop. When the aerosol version of BlackTop is used, apply at least 3 light coats. Waiting until the first or consecutive coat is dry-to-touch and does not leave a fingerprint before applying the next coat. When spraying BlackTop Aerosol, hold the aerosol can about 6 to 8 inches from surface to be sprayed. Do not cover with continuous spray. Move back and forth, releasing the spray head after each stroke. Overlap each stroke. BlackTop Aerosol is fully cured in 48 hours. BlackTop can also be applied by HVLP, brush, or even a small foam roller. Directions for this easy application can be found HERE. If additional coats are to be applied after 24 hours have transpired it is best to lightly scuff the previous cured coat of BlackTop with 320 grit sandpaper or a green Scotch-Brite pad. Instructions for use of BlackTop can be found HERE. Questions Have questions about how to black out chrome trim with paint? Please reach out HERE!